climbing is life

Arco Rockmaster 2013

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One week after European Championship in Eindhoven I went to Arco Rocmaster. Here are news and emotions from bouldering competitions in Arco.

First of all I want to thank you all! So many people helped me to reach this result.

Winning was like elixir, which made me calmer and all my thought became brighter. Right after announcement of the winners I hugged my love, there cannot be better support in life!

Winning is like a drug, athletes can’t survive without next competition, which can bring a lot of joy.

From the side public can’t see what climbers are thinking about. This might be interesting for anyone. It is impossible to tell everything, you need to live climber’s life. Climbers want to share their feelings, how they train with only one thought in mind: I’m the best, I’m the strongest, I can do anything!

When you don’t want to train, you need trainer. He understands you, you give him energy, in his mind he climbs with you during the training. Sometimes I observe astonishing picture: how my trainer jumps like helping me, when I do long jump. I’m sure if I will climb as the one who climbs in the trainer’s mind, I will be invincible.

But after the training you are falling into the dark, everything becomes again pointless.

Continuously you are moving to the next starts. Often you regret that you could do more and you again forgot about one important exercise. I always have a goal to make every exercise consciously, be in the exercise, not just look from the side, as often happens with other climbers.

Actually I’m not making more training than other climbers, but every training I do purposefully, I’m in the action. And of course not everything is as I would like it to be.

Playing sport is very interesting. When sport becomes your life you are playing life! The more honestly and with love you are playing, the closer you are to harmony.

And finally about boulders…. Otherwise it will be boring for you 🙂

Morning. We came to try the problems. Very early, 8 am. For climbers it is too early.

Ehh, I need to climb. Without warming up I started with problems. I just couldn’t get up earlier. We are trying the problems very lazy, watching each other, we were with 12 people. Everyone is upset with so many crimpers. Even I feel that they are too many. I’m glad but concerned that problems might be changed.

Warmed up on the first problem (it was announced first after), made flash… not bad.

Started with second problem (again, it was announced to be the second later)… I’m a bit slow, but finished it after few attempts.

Spent a lot of attempts on the last problem, I had a feeling that it will be last and winners will be decided after this one. Finish looks impossible. I went away for the third problem. Balance and jump from very uncomfortable position. I can’t make the jump, tried it several times but it became only worse. I told to trainer that I will not do the jump now but will do it on the competitions. He agreed. I waited for the announcement of the problems numbers and left. Finish is in three hours. I chose first starting number, I like to start first.

Start! I’m cheerful and confident!

I made public feel nervous with climbing first problem from the second attempt even though I flashed it this morning.

Guys are leaving sport ground…. We are left with 5 on the third problem. I’m worried. But route settlers changed the problem a bit so guys can’t do one part. I put myself together and jumped from the second attempt as I planned it, I’m very happy)))

Final. Three persons left and the problem, which I almost can finish. Miracle! I almost did it from the second attempt, it was ALMOST real. And I become a winner.

Here is the video from finals.

And short interview.

Fingers are still in pain after the crimpers.

Thanks to everyone!

More about bouldering competitions you can find here.

2 Responses

  1. Pingback: Арко Рокмастер 2013 | Rustam Gelmanov

  2. Pingback: Adidas Rockstars 2013 | Rustam Gelmanov

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