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climbing is life

Out loud

Story of my life


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in englishна русском

 

It's been a long while since my last post. This time I will not write about competitions or training. This time it is story from my childhood. It’s difficult to say, but maybe this story will be interesting for someone.

Rustam Gelmanov, Рустам ГельмановUntil I became 12 years old I lived in small town Tekeli, old Soviet Union Republic Kazakhstan. How was it? It was like in a fairytale, but only for kids. As soon as Soviet Union felled apart, adults had nothing to do there. Big long canyon, few small mountain rivers getting together and then lapse into a big river, and then into lake Balkhash. Sun is shining every day all year around. Clouds are only for rain, otherwise they didn’t come to this place. Only nature around! This place can beat many resorts.

From early childhood I felled freedom and didn’t feel being under control of anyone. I learned on my own mistakes and at the age of 7 I realized that I’m more conscious than many adults. But I didn’t want to become adult! Why would you wish something that is inevitable? That is why even now I feel myself like in childhood. I have nice memories about house we lived in: real own big house with garden and all small buildings around it, necessary for surviving in post Soviet Union time on periphery. Chickens and etc)))

Ah, here is one case; I will interrupt myself if you don’t mind. It is just one of critical points in my life: I realized something significant in nature.

I was at the age when all kids catch and torture the cats. My mom called me and told that there is plum tree on the garden and I should saw it. There were few plum trees in the garden including partly sawed one. Turned out that I had to saw the partly sawed plum tree and demolish ugly stamp with it, but I actually sawed good alive plum tree. When my mom saw that, she was upset but not as much as me. Adults are harder, one can say that adults are coarsened in their feelings. I was upset thoroughly and. To the bottom of my heart and maybe even deeper I realized that there was alive tree and I destroyed it with my own hands. Five minutes ago life was circulating in this tree. Now this tree is laying there and dyeing, and you can’t put it back, it will never grow back together no matter how you try. At this moment I realized that nature is in our hands. Child cruelty began to step back.

Rustam Gelmanov, Рустам Гельманов

I can’t explain how great it was in childhood in this cozy town, I’m not a writer.

Then very spontaneous my dad went to Africa for a job and was decided that soon we will move to Russia. I couldn’t fully understand all seriousness of this, but I was ready for anything. While I was living in one place I even felt jealous about people who move from one place to another.

Moving day. Everyone gathered together to tell good buy. I was not worrying about moving but I was worrying about cat that can go somewhere and we will leave without it. All day I was paying attention to a cat so it will not leave. Cat is free and it can disappear for a few days and then return… as everyone in our family. I didn’t miss the cat. We made a photo and left. Suddenly I realized that I locked the dog and I forgot to unlock it before we left. We couldn’t take dog with us, that would be too much. Thought about this dog being locked forever didn’t leave my mind for a long time. Probably I was worrying for the whole year. Of course now it is all forgotten.

Rustam Gelmanov, Рустам Гельманов

Time went faster. Moving from city to city, changing schools, I even don’t remember anyone from my last school, not even teachers. Maybe it is not that good but my memory is not stuffed with school memories. Moscow started to do its work and form me by its rules. There was a lot of interesting stuff, but time was flying so fast.

Three years ago I’ve met Tatyana. Those three years for me as ten!

Love creates miracles!

 


New jeans from Salewa


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in englishна русском

 

Last year I was testing prototype of Salewa jeans, so I was wearing them all year. This year I received final sample. I’m very pleased with the material, stylish design and emphasized features.


Place where power comes to me


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in englishна русском

 

Second time I’m coming to Slovenia and I’m greeted with heart. One family from Cerklje na Gorenjskem (close to Ljubljana) helps me. Long time ago I wanted to find accommodation not in Ljubljana but somewhere not far from the city. I had a car and I could afford living close to the competition. That was a World cup in Log-Dragomer. I knew that competition is held in the neighborhood and booked accommodation in the neighborhood, but I made a small mistake and that place was on the opposite side((

This place is filled with heart, so next year I also came there. From that moment on I made friends with Julia and Tomaz, the owners of the Mama House. They kindly give me small room and follow my successes.

They always enlarge their Mama House. Of course, you can enlarge the place forever; especially if it brings you joy. The life goes on in hard work.

Tomaz made for me the board for pull ups. I attached few crimps to it. I brought weights there))) Sometimes kids of Julia and Tomaz are playing with it)))

I felled in love with Slovenia. Inspiration often comes to me in this small village.

I need 20-30 min to get to the training hall in Skifja Loka. The road is scenic in summer and winter.

First time I’m here in winter. I took my skis with me since I knew that skiing resort Krvavec is nearby. Turned out, Krvavec is extremely close, just couple if kilometers. Perfect place for relaxation after hard trainings.


Independent of me decision


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in englishна русском

 

I’m in the Netherlands now and it is moment of truth. This week I’m applying for the Dutch residence permit. If everything will work out I will have long-term residence permit and I would feel more freely in Europe than before.

I’m a bit worried. It is important for me.


Happy new year!


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in englishна русском

 

Wonderful fairy tale continues to the next year...


Back to Russia


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in englishна русском

 

This year two times I was in Moscow: before competition season at the beginning of the year and now, after competition season. Moscow greeted  me coldly. City convulsively compressed by large population, most of whom came here to fulfill the dream. No one cares about moral and aesthetic part of the city. As result, reigns here impudence.

Rustam Gelmanov, Рустам Гельманов

Just couple of days is enough for me to adapt, and that's probably because I studied here. For me it was not just a school, where you get knowledge. It was the "School of Life", where I learned how to behave in Moscow that everything will be "OK." From the moment I left Kazakhstan, a lot has happened, I changed a lot, I have different character. For that I should "thank" Moscow.

Rustam Gelmanov, Рустам Гельманов

Then there was school stage of my life, when I was doing avia modeling. The head of our section was a real "man" , he was a fireman , raised by the old canons , he was honest and fought for honesty. He was my hero and he taught me a lot. I was for him as a son . At that time I realized that the world is not so rotten and there is "light of life", but it is not simple at all to find the person who radiates this light. Do you know how appreciated people who are keen to ideal world and fight for justice in this country? In brief , he was fired. Well, of course I was disappointed.

Rustam Gelmanov, Рустам Гельманов

Life in Moscow teaches you many things, but only if you combine it with life in other places. Otherwise ....

I didn’t want to offend anyone, just don’t see myself differently.

... what did I want to tell with all these writing? Oh yes, I remembered.

Rustam Gelmanov, Рустам Гельманов

If I was told in childhood, back then when I lived in Kazakhstan, that once I will live like I live now and I will afford myself everything that I can afford right now, I wouldn't believed it. Even five years ago I would not believe it too.

But I never limited myself in dreams. Perhaps that was the key that opens even now one door after another in front of me.


Give freedom to my thoughts


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in englishна русском

 

Hello to everyone!

Every time writing new post I want to write: And again new phase (of life).. I always have this idea in mind, always new and excellent phase. But this time it is not like that, thinking and living like by phases is not natural. I like smoothness in events. Everything depends on how you look at it))

I’ve decided to start preparation for the next season from December 1st. From the last season I have reserve of power (that is how I realized that everything is smooth with no jumps) and most importantly motivation. I feel all this energy which is proper only for competitions. I still didn’t forget sweetness of the victories and heard braking bitterness of performances which didn’t bring me satisfaction.

In many years of training ball of events, emotions, various worries and exhausting trainings is developed in me. So this ball (which is somewhere deep inside me) revived and now I don’t need to support it. It is generated independent of me organ. Moreover, it motivates and teaches me. Yes, I know, it sounds strange, but this ball also knows way more than me.

Ups… I completely forgot that I wanted to write about emotions after trip with my wife in USA.

Rustam Gelmanov, Рустам Гельманов

Feeling of freedom… delight of this sense makes you alive. We had three weeks, big car with sleeping place, endless even American roads, happiness of newlyweds, and by this time opened National parks.

How can I describe it in few sentences? I don’t want to stoop to say that trip was “cool!”. Otherwise I would have to write l need to write a small book.

All trip was happening in halo of embraces of beloved.

Colorado – Utah – Nevada – California. Nature was charming us and securing already strong connection.

More about my USA adventures you can find here.


Our Montenegrian Wedding 22.07.2013


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in englishна русском

 

Hello everyone! New chapter of my life started: recently I couldn’t even think that time will change me so much, now I’m married!

Rustam Gelmanov, Рустам Гельманов

How did everything start? It started as everything that happens with me. I was dreaming and only dreaming, subconsciously and honestly! I was dreaming about beautiful and wonderful wife, about understanding without words and about everything romantic in the world to be happening with us!

Usually dreams come true if you believe in them with all your heart. I think not many people know about this simple thing.

About my love I can speak forever, but I can’t write forever, so I will try to find enough room in your patience.

Last year when I was in Miami, I spent a lot of nights in the internet. We with Tatyana got the same thought simultaneously: “Should we get married?” Not spending a lot of time on decision, we’ve decided to try to arrange everything during very busy next year. Of course we were afraid that everything may not be on the way we want it. But there is very big BUT! My optimism was covering everything even without any reasons for that. I should repeat it again, true believe is a very strong support.

Rustam Gelmanov, Рустам Гельманов“Why Montenegro? Where is it? Is it good there?” – some questions we had to deal with when we discovered that organize wedding in such a beautiful place will be ideal. There are way more pluses than minuses. No one needs visa to Montenegro, sea, sun, mountains, rivers, lots of interesting historical places and atmosphere of freedom.

Main thing that we were sure about was that we didn’t want help from wedding organizing companies. We started to organize everything by ourselves. To be precise, it was Tatyana’s turn to read reviews, look for beautiful places, search interesting activities, reserve everything.

It is known that if you want to have everything in the way you like, you have to do it yourself. There is just one BUT: you need to have aspiration and time. Oh yes, we don’t have any problem with aspiration, we even have too much of aspiration. But with time we had some problems. It is even difficult to describe all my fussy trips around the world just before the wedding. I should mention that I still managed to relax. Friends of mine saved me and took over all last arrangements, which I was not able to do.

First day, first chapter.

Everything is arranged, all gathered together. Early morning of very warm Montenegrian day started with fuss. Maksim and Anya (friends) took care about all last things and told me to relax and enjoy this day. They didn’t need to persuade me and I slowly started to melt in atmosphere of love and understanding.

Only one thought was coming through my mind: “Haha, I am Husband!”

AAAA, how can I write and explain to you everything that was happening there? I will try.

Rustam Gelmanov, Рустам Гельманов

Tatyana is beautiful, shining in the brilliant glow of the happiness of her soul. She is like a ray of sunshine, playing with dewdrop at sunrise, gives you the solemnity of the new day. She is fluttering in a beautiful dress, attracts guests attention. Amazingly wonderful outdoor terrace with view to the mountains and the sea with a slowly moving ships… All around is covered with flowers and white delicate curtains, I'm waiting for my Muse. Tatyana is lead by her father, walking on the roses petals.

Guests are holding their breath, event coming to culmination, and as thunder you can hear the words: "Do you agree... ? " Rings, the first kiss, broken into small pieces glasses, cheers, lots of hugs and congratulations, gifts and, of course, again kisses!

After a brief lull time went faster. The event went faster in all senses. The boat, dinner… this day was so intense, that if I will tell more I would bring you into boredom!

Two more days were planned for the rafting and jeepping on the wonderful places of untouched Montenegrian nature.

I think I greatly reduced the ending ))) But believe me, it was like in a fairy tale!

Rustam Gelmanov, Рустам Гельманов

Thanks to out friends for special atmosphere, thanks to you for taking time to read!

Thanks to my wife, all my life is connected with her!


News from USA #3. Indian Creek.


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in englishна русском

 

First of all thanks to everyone who is following these news!

Rustam Gelmanov on the wall

In the previous post you saw strange thing with crimps attached to the car. So, it is fast made foldable trainer for training climbing on normal crimps. Now we are only doing crack climbing, for sure I will lose my current skills on the crimp climbing. Therefore, designed during building this trainer happens to be very useful and easy! If you want to create the same, write to me, I can tell you couple of nuances. I’m warming up on this trainer in the mornings. Also I’m using weighing material which I brought from home.

Despite some everyday life difficulties, life here is very simple. Morning. Making fruit salad. Even our friend – video operator, who likes meat a lot – said that he getting full with the salad, especially by vegetable one that we make in the evening. He doesn’t have much choice here, set of products we have is very simple – a lot of fruits and vegetables.

Everyone is getting up early and waiting for the sun to feel the warmness of the luminary. Then we are warming up a bit and going to the rocks. Climbing and again climbing. Usually we come when it is very dark already.

Every night fabulous stars shine in the sky, every star whispers its mystery. There is infinite number of stars, but every star is insanely far from another. The same is with people. There are so many people in the world, sometimes it looks like we are close. But actually there is everlasting misunderstanding and disagreement between people. Only small pendant bridges can safe the situation, everyone should built these bridges inside – tolerance, hope, and persistence.

More news and more photos will come! Hope you are enjoying it.


Before ECB 2013. Thinking loud.


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in englishна русском
 

This year the most important start for me will be at home. Why at home? Just because I always want to come back here and when I’m here I don’t want to leave. Yes, now Netherlands is my home. While I’m away competing or training, my loving wife always waits for me and misses me.

My destiny was bringing me to different cities and countries. Only the place where I grew up I always felt home. All other places were just temporary. Now I have the place which I can call the coziest and filled with tenderness.

Rock climbing brought me my love…Such a wordplay.

Even Monk played the role. If there will be no Monk there will be no Worldcup in the Netherlands, and for sure not in Eindhoven. Thus, I would not meet Tatyana.

Feels like lots of accidents just decided to happen. Miracle – I met her! I couldn’t not love her… especially after everything that we went through.