climbing is life


Red Bull Rock’n’Rocks: The Journey of a Rock Climber Told Through Music

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Professional rock climber Rustam Gelmanov had a dream - to express climbing and the emotional journey a climber experiences through music. Musicians Long Arm & Ruslan Gazhgimuradov teamed up in a collaboration inspired by Rustam's dream, to realize his dream and compose the journey of a climber as they set out to conquer a new face.

News from USA #5. Truckee and Stanislaus National forest.

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I should start with mentioning that we were training hard, we were torturing ourselves and our hands. And for what? Just to apply all our skills on big walls in Yosemite National Park. But everything went not as we planned. Not at all as we planned.

Rustam Gelmanov, Рустам Гельманов

At the beginning it looked as a joke. You can’t even imagine that all parks in USA can be closed. But this joke started to get real and now everything is very serious and parks will be closed. We are really worried, we don’t have second option, we are planning to go to National parks which will be closed for who knows how long!

Rustam Gelmanov, Рустам ГельмановWe spent already lots of trainings in Indian Creek, this place is pressing you, we need a change. It doesn’t mean that everything is the same, but something hard is already too hard and something easy is already too easy. I’ve got this feeling only with cracks, didn’t notice it before.

We gathered together to discuss out future plan. Nice guys advised us to go to Truckee: it is beautiful there, rocks and lake. Ok, we decided to go there, we don’t have much choice.

Arrived! Rocks were disappointing. We immediately found climbing shop, it is the only place where you can get advice about nice rocks around. Shop was a bit cheerless, we were in low spirits. Surprisingly, shop assistant decided to open secret for us, which is so uncommon here. He said that there are nice high rocks nearby, but there is no guide book in free access, but he can just send it to us by email. We were really shocked to meat real kindness in USA!

We didn’t find the place immediately. Only with help of local fisherman we arrived to the destination on the planned day. The shop assistant guaranteed that the place is open, has nice river, no people and high rocks for 10 ropes. Everything was just in front of us and we started preparation for the climbing. It was quite difficult to understand guidebook, they could put it for free access, and anyway no one will find the place)))

Here is our plan: start climbing in the midday and finish last rope at night. This time plan worked. The rout was very easy and even didn’t bring tiredness. We were climbing calmly and slowly, I like it a lot. For me it is as going up by trail. Only here you feel the height very fast. You only need to look down.

Rustam Gelmanov, Рустам Гельманов

Night came exactly as we expected. Last rope and here we have slow but very long ascent on slab. It feels like this slab took forever. We were not securing ourselves with the rope, it is silly, but if you make a mistake – there are no chances. Pitch darkness, very long day, this wall makes you feel dizzy. Slightly swinging from the height we found a place to sleep.

Lots of stars were shining for us saying: Guys, we give you unspeakable beauty, but for that you have to stand the coldness and taste the loneliness. Small fire helped us but we had to lighten it twice. In addition our food reserve was very poor and we had only one blanked for three, we specially planned that.

Rustam Gelmanov, Рустам Гельманов

At the morning we waited for the operator to make time lapse. We went down by rappelling because going down by trail is more difficult, especially if you don’t know where it is))) And of course going down by rock is more beautiful!

It is very nice here, but not for a training. Again we are on our way towards sun.

More new from this trip you can find here.

Impressions El Capitan The Nose 2012

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It's been an year since I've been in Yosemite national park for the first time. I found one note that I made after the trip. Finally it is online.  Let me know what do you think.

You can ask, was I afraid to try myself in trad?

Of course! I was afraid, extremely afraid. I couldn’t even imagine, what it is! But I was sure that once starting it everything will be fine.

Rustam Gelmanov, Рустам Гельманов

For me there were a lot of difficulties, I’m a boulder climber, I’m used to fall right and left. On these rocks everything is different. Even atmosphere was making it clear: “my friend”, you are making something different here, forget the old rules. You can’t fall here! That’s a fact! There is no point to argue with that! If you are going to climb here and climb for long time, you should forget about falling. This is not what I’m used to, I never fixed myself securely, I always run while I have power and I want to.

View from The Nose El Capitan

I was afraid of placing anchors, but not for long. After couple of days fear grew to respect and later I got some understanding of what is happening. At the beginning I was playing with camalots, I was putting them so badly into the crack that I was angry and wasn’t going to fall down.

Rustam Gelmanov, Рустам Гельманов

We were climbing as much as we could and as long as we could. But it is not the most important. We were choosing routees with the most difficult and most unusual styles. Clean lines for hands I loved from the beginning.

Rustam Gelmanov, Рустам Гельманов

Long time ago when I just started to climb, I watched the movie “Masters of stone 5”. I don’t remember anything but how Steph Davis free-sloing the route. I couldn’t even imagine that one day I will try this route as well. You will not believe, but I even was afraid to dream about it. Seriously! One route from the movie I even climbed! The route was not difficult but I enjoyed every move.


News from USA #4. Indian Creek.

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We all become friendlier and almost understand each other. Next step is understand each other without words. Everyone is trying at his best. Pasha is responsible for the choosing of the routs, he watches closely over the safety. Without Pasha it would be impossible for me to get used to these rocks.

Every day I’m moving forward. Climbing trad is easier and more pleasant now. From the signs of confidence on the route I experience real pleasure. Adrenalin is playing in the blood. Every move and every point depend on you. Everything is in your hands, it is your choice – take the risk or not?

Of course there are moments when I tell to myself: Ohh Mama, why did I out myself here? But as soon as you finish the problem, adrenalin covers all difficulties and you are again ready for the new fight!

More new from this trip you can find here.

News from USA #3. Indian Creek.

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First of all thanks to everyone who is following these news!

Rustam Gelmanov on the wall

In the previous post you saw strange thing with crimps attached to the car. So, it is fast made foldable trainer for training climbing on normal crimps. Now we are only doing crack climbing, for sure I will lose my current skills on the crimp climbing. Therefore, designed during building this trainer happens to be very useful and easy! If you want to create the same, write to me, I can tell you couple of nuances. I’m warming up on this trainer in the mornings. Also I’m using weighing material which I brought from home.

Despite some everyday life difficulties, life here is very simple. Morning. Making fruit salad. Even our friend – video operator, who likes meat a lot – said that he getting full with the salad, especially by vegetable one that we make in the evening. He doesn’t have much choice here, set of products we have is very simple – a lot of fruits and vegetables.

Everyone is getting up early and waiting for the sun to feel the warmness of the luminary. Then we are warming up a bit and going to the rocks. Climbing and again climbing. Usually we come when it is very dark already.

Every night fabulous stars shine in the sky, every star whispers its mystery. There is infinite number of stars, but every star is insanely far from another. The same is with people. There are so many people in the world, sometimes it looks like we are close. But actually there is everlasting misunderstanding and disagreement between people. Only small pendant bridges can safe the situation, everyone should built these bridges inside – tolerance, hope, and persistence.

More news and more photos will come! Hope you are enjoying it.

News from USA #2. Indian Creek.

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Couple of days after arriving to Albuquerque we continued our journey.

Now we are already in Indian Creek. Hard training started.

Sometimes we are repeating the routes that we did last year. Now it is much easier. It is like bicycle – as soon as you know how to cycle and know the techniques, you only gain the experience. On some routes I feel very comfortable. I’m very surprised with that!

I was dreaming about being in this beautiful park after competition season. You can feel real serenity here! Of course it depends on the people with whom you stay there.

Training wall for crimp climbing

We arrived late night to this place and could experience all mystery that feels this place. With sunrise day becomes “working day” and there is no time to enjoy the nature anymore. Impatiently I’m waiting for the evening, darkness and mysteriousness come instantly. Large sun falls over the horizon like big sunflower.

Crack climbing is like a ballet for me. Sometimes you have to stand awful pain and spend a lot of power. At the same time you are trying to keep power. To do that you need to move elegantly and try to unite with the wall like you are the part of the wall. Don’t you think it is like a ballet? Only there is no public.

New hair style!

If you want to know more about my trip to USA read here. And the video from last year!

El Capitan The Nose first attempt

In September 2012 Pasha Dobrinskiy and I was climbing El Capitan the Nose, in Yosemite National Park. Amazing place! I will come back there next year to free climb the Nose. Valery Semenov made video about our first attempt. Hope you will enjoy it.

P.S.: Thanks to Sven Diekmann for the help with comments 🙂