climbing is life


CWIF Sheffield

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Couple of month ago on the training Dutch coach Wouter came to me. He said that after Climbing Works competition in Sheffield (UK) joint training with Slovenian climbing team will be organized. The plan was to stay for 5 more days after the comps and have a good training session.  Offer was very tempting and I’ve decided to go if getting UK visa will not bring me much troubles. I wrote to organizers asked for invitation letter. The replied with another offer: if I will compete for their team they will help me with costs. It will be foolish to reject this offer, so I added this event to my calendar.

Rustam Gelmanov, Рустам Гельманов

Competitions started. I’ve been in Sheffield already and I knew what to expect from climbing gym. Qualification is in festival format. All competitors were divided into two groups, I was in first. But I arrived to Sheffield only at 2am previous night and I didn’t get much sleep, organizers kindly moved me to the second group. In total there are 30 problems, not that many. There are no power problems, the most difficult ones are on balance on slopers. Basically, nothing difficult, probably route settlers have decided to keep our powers for next rounds.

Semifinals and finals are next day. I was climbing well but problems were not difficult. In total I spent 2 extra attempts and was worrying a bit about it.  For the final you should be concentrated, and this is something I forgot. Problems are great but I took it too serious.

Of course I was not happy with the result, but I didn’t plan to get upset either. I should be ready for the coming season!

The most interesting part came in two days. Famous route-setters prepared for us a lot of problems. We were divided into groups and tackled the problems for the five hours. That was incredible! Great marathon where your desire to climb overcomes pain and tiredness.

In two days we will have same marathon full of fighting and joy.

Rustam Gelmanov, Рустам Гельманов

 Big thanks to Graeme, Wouter, Simon (Slovenia), Persi (route-setter) and many others!

Kiev. My impression.

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Week ago I travelled to Kiev. Probably many of you would like to know what did I see there in ONE day))) Of course I didn’t get what is happening there and I’m totally concentrated on other things. I was focused on future master class, long talk takes a lot of energy and I need to be prepared for that. For this event was chosen not the best day, I knew that. But I couldn’t come in any other day since next day I had competition in UK.

Rustam Gelmanov, Рустам Гельманов

This master class was one of pleasant cases when I was tired to talk before public was tired to listen. Of course I’m not able to share all my knowledge about climbing in details in such a short time. And once heard, what to do with it? You can’t improve endlessly. Time is going, everything changes, you need to change methods and approach to trainings. That is why once knowing the secret you can’t be strong forever.

Rustam Gelmanov, Рустам Гельманов

I give a lot of information to audience and feel emptying after that. But I’m sure that I will be filled with fresh thoughts and energy which will be sent to me by people who know me and will know me.

Now more people know me and certainly they will support me in difficult moments of my competitions.

Big thanks to friendly and responsive audience from Kiev.

Thanks to Redbull Ukraine for invitation.

“Power balls”. Create simple gift for yourself or your climbing friend.

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Once I've already shown training wall for crimp climbing in the car made by myself. Here is the next do-it-yourself tip.

Long time ago I was in IKEA and saw there a candlestick. I immediately wanted to take it into hands. The moment I realized that I could remove the bottom, I saw in it sport equipment.

All you need is 2 candlesticks, 2 quick draws, piece of the rope.

Gelmanov Rustam, Гельманов Рустам

1) Remove bottoms from the candlesticks.
2) Remove one carabiner from each quick draw. Insert the loops into candlesticks.
3) Use piece of the rope to fix loops inside candlesticks. Put the bottoms into candlesticks.

The balls are very slippery. You need a lot of power to hang on them. You can always make it sharper by sandpaper. Candlesticks are made from aluminum and it is easy to work with.

Make your favorite work with pleasure, climb with pleasure!

Helsinki. Emotions.

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Hello everyone!

Might be that I dreamed about meeting like that. It happened the other way around than I dreamed. They found me themselves. Probably I’m just lucky))

Some time ago I received email saying something like: “Hi, I’m Henna. Do you want to come to Helsinki for couple of days? Will be fun!” Why not, decided I. At the end, I participated in competitions coinciding with the opening of the new climbing gym Boulderkeskus in Helsinki. After the comps I gave a talk where I said about my life, trainings and a bit about everything. Also I showed couple of exercises. I’m very glad, that was my first performance like that in English.

Huge spacious climbing gym with lots of facilities. The length of the overhang of one of the modules is incredible. You can easily train lead here even though it is a boulder gym. Impressions from the climbing gym are very positive. I’m a bit envy, I would happily train there for the competitions ((

Rustam Gelmanov, Jernej Kruder

Boulderkeskus is the place where I could spend all day long.

Thanks to Jernej Kruder for the problems. He knows the difficult problems for me)))

Thanks to incredibly wonderful people Henna and Jarmo. World rests on such people.

Training secrets

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How should I write about it without revealing all the training secrets?

You understand that how important is training, lots of nuances. Secret technologies to raise your power, secret technics of coming to an other state.


I knew that! There are no limits of naivety.

There are no secrets! Not at all! Everything is very easy that most of the people can’t believe that.

One day I realized, I need a trainer. I need a person who will control me, urge me, believe in me and force you to make voluntary attempts again and again. A person who sees the border between: it is possible if you keep trying and it is impossible, at least now, no matter how much you try.

As the fates decree, I found such a person. I don’t need to explain anything to him, I only share emotions.

“How do you train? Where is the secret?” – You can ask.

A lot of training. At first sight, it is just simple training: sportsmen is doing attempt after attempt, falls down, sometimes writhing with pain, keeps silent and making new attempt. Trainer is beside him, calm and attentive. He has this look that you are not at any importance there. Sometimes he shows new routes, depends on how fast you can finish it. In general, trainer is relaxing while you puffing over the rout and getting stuck on one movement. Oh yes, sometimes he is laughing when you fell yourself as a hog on ice.

“Why am I telling you all this stuff?”

Because from the side you will never notice what is going on and you will not be able to repeat it at home. You will miss the main thing, the state of the sportsmen and trainer. There is certain relation between them; trainer feels you like you are part of him. You also feel the trainer, but usually you don’t have time to think about it, you need to climb hard. Trainer doesn't let you to relax for free, only if he would want it. Everything in the room is soaked with the feeling, that you can do anything, that you are told to, you just have to do it. Mechanism of self-excited system is working. You came with at least weak intention, trainer cultivates your intention, infects you with self confidence. Therefore, you are becoming stronger and trainer is confident in you even more. In this way you can reach incredible level without feeling yourself tired and exhausted!

Of course, it is difficult to believe in it, you just need to try.

Thanks to Roman. He is going to broaden my true limits.