Travelling around Archives - Rustam Gelmanov

Singapore. NUS boulderactive.

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Once in my email I saw the letter which did not leave me other choice as to say "YES". I had to say "yes" to the invitation from far away country Singapore. I was invited, firstly, as a route setter for the competition NUS Boulderactive, and, secondary, as not such a bad climber)) It was nice that the invitation came long before the event and we could plan it inbetween my competitions.

Rustam Gelmanov, Рустам Гельманов

Many emails about coming event, a lot of details. Immediately after the World Cup in Laval I flew to Singapore in anticipation of a tropical climate, where I feel like at home. I was tired after the worldcup I arrived and my expectations came true. Hot and humid, I was sweating after a few meters after I crossed the door of the airport, which separated me from the air conditioner. I know that I'm getting used to the climate quickly, just need to wait a bit.

Guys met hearty welcomed me. Sitting in the car I was sure that now we will go for dinner and then sleep, it was about 6 pm. But I've decided to ask and got stunning response. Yes, as I thought dinner will be right now, but then from 9 pm to 3 am we will set routes. Not showing my surprise like I was expecting such a graphic, I was trying to understand how is it possible that so soon after the worldcup and the flight I had to do something. But perhaps it was on the right moment, I reached a new level of efficiency, from that moment on I only needed food, sleep was no longer so necessary.

Rustam Gelmanov, Рустам Гельманов

The first day was the hardest because we had to set a lot of routes for the finals and there was not much space. Actively thinking and working together, we did not notice that it was 5am already and we all together went for food. Oh, and do not be surprised, you can find any food in the middle of the night in Singapore. Friendly guys gave me the energy that I did not fall asleep while eating))) (just kidding)

Rustam Gelmanov, Рустам Гельманов After the first day already I felt that the guys here are very good, all very responsible and know their business. It will be impossible to prepare bad competition. I slept for 4 hours and it was a start of the new day which was practically continuing for two days: many events and only lunches and dinners in the local caterers worth a lot. So many memories with an indescribable emotions. Atmosphere of Asian disorder in this luxurious place simply does not fit in my head. In short, Lamborghini, Ferrari, track for F1, high glass buildings –it is a very different city in comparison with local places to eat and markets. By the way, nearby places to eat sometimes have a terrible look for Europeans; for example, how satay is prepared in smoke and fire and all this richly flavored with oil.

Week went by like one day, at the same time feels like world cup in Laval was a month ago. I have noticed long ago that eventful life leaves strange dual feeling leaving brain confused.

Guang, a lovely local man, was my assistant. He told me everything he knew about Singapore, and I in return shared my thoughts in the style of "about anything and everything". We had a nice time together and it was sad to say goodbye to him. A lot of positive emotions I got from Guang, unselfishly spending his energy on me.

Guang and me

Competitions went very well, routes were very suitable. I’ve met many potentially strong guys during the trip. They just need someone to whom they could look up to or coach. Then the progress will not take long.

Meeting such organized, friendly and cheerful guys was as a big holiday for a week. Thanks to the organizers who have tried very hard to make this event special and so carefully treated me.

Good luck Singaporeans, now a piece of my soul with you.

I forgot to mention one more thing. The number of autographs I gave was a pleasant surprise for me, probably, it exceeded a few hundred.

22.07.2014 | Categories: Travelling around | Leave A Comment »

Give freedom to my thoughts

Hello to everyone!

Every time writing new post I want to write: And again new phase (of life).. I always have this idea in mind, always new and excellent phase. But this time it is not like that, thinking and living like by phases is not natural. I like smoothness in events. Everything depends on how you look at it))

I’ve decided to start preparation for the next season from December 1^st. From the last season I have reserve of power (that is how I realized that everything is smooth with no jumps) and most importantly motivation. I feel all this energy which is proper only for competitions. I still didn’t forget sweetness of the victories and heard braking bitterness of performances which didn’t bring me satisfaction.

In many years of training ball of events, emotions, various worries and exhausting trainings is developed in me. So this ball (which is somewhere deep inside me) revived and now I don’t need to support it. It is generated independent of me organ. Moreover, it motivates and teaches me. Yes, I know, it sounds strange, but this ball also knows way more than me.

Ups… I completely forgot that I wanted to write about emotions after trip with my wife in USA.

Rustam Gelmanov, Рустам Гельманов

Feeling of freedom… delight of this sense makes you alive. We had three weeks, big car with sleeping place, endless even American roads, happiness of newlyweds, and by this time opened National parks.

How can I describe it in few sentences? I don’t want to stoop to say that trip was “cool!”. Otherwise I would have to write l need to write a small book.

All trip was happening in halo of embraces of beloved.

Colorado – Utah – Nevada – California. Nature was charming us and securing already strong connection.

More about my USA adventures you can find here.

02.12.2013 | Categories: Out loud, Travelling around | 1 Comment »

News from USA #5. Truckee and Stanislaus National forest.

I should start with mentioning that we were training hard, we were torturing ourselves and our hands. And for what? Just to apply all our skills on big walls in Yosemite National Park. But everything went not as we planned. Not at all as we planned.

Rustam Gelmanov, Рустам Гельманов

At the beginning it looked as a joke. You can’t even imagine that all parks in USA can be closed. But this joke started to get real and now everything is very serious and parks will be closed. We are really worried, we don’t have second option, we are planning to go to National parks which will be closed for who knows how long!

Rustam Gelmanov, Рустам Гельманов We spent already lots of trainings in Indian Creek, this place is pressing you, we need a change. It doesn’t mean that everything is the same, but something hard is already too hard and something easy is already too easy. I’ve got this feeling only with cracks, didn’t notice it before.

We gathered together to discuss out future plan. Nice guys advised us to go to Truckee: it is beautiful there, rocks and lake. Ok, we decided to go there, we don’t have much choice.

Arrived! Rocks were disappointing. We immediately found climbing shop, it is the only place where you can get advice about nice rocks around. Shop was a bit cheerless, we were in low spirits. Surprisingly, shop assistant decided to open secret for us, which is so uncommon here. He said that there are nice high rocks nearby, but there is no guide book in free access, but he can just send it to us by email. We were really shocked to meat real kindness in USA!

We didn’t find the place immediately. Only with help of local fisherman we arrived to the destination on the planned day. The shop assistant guaranteed that the place is open, has nice river, no people and high rocks for 10 ropes. Everything was just in front of us and we started preparation for the climbing. It was quite difficult to understand guidebook, they could put it for free access, and anyway no one will find the place)))

Here is our plan: start climbing in the midday and finish last rope at night. This time plan worked. The rout was very easy and even didn’t bring tiredness. We were climbing calmly and slowly, I like it a lot. For me it is as going up by trail. Only here you feel the height very fast. You only need to look down.

Rustam Gelmanov, Рустам Гельманов

Night came exactly as we expected. Last rope and here we have slow but very long ascent on slab. It feels like this slab took forever. We were not securing ourselves with the rope, it is silly, but if you make a mistake – there are no chances. Pitch darkness, very long day, this wall makes you feel dizzy. Slightly swinging from the height we found a place to sleep.

Lots of stars were shining for us saying: Guys, we give you unspeakable beauty, but for that you have to stand the coldness and taste the loneliness. Small fire helped us but we had to lighten it twice. In addition our food reserve was very poor and we had only one blanked for three, we specially planned that.

Rustam Gelmanov, Рустам Гельманов

At the morning we waited for the operator to make time lapse. We went down by rappelling because going down by trail is more difficult, especially if you don’t know where it is))) And of course going down by rock is more beautiful!

It is very nice here, but not for a training. Again we are on our way towards sun.

More new from this trip you can find here.

29.10.2013 | Categories: Outdoor, Travelling around | Leave A Comment »

News from USA #4. Indian Creek.

We all become friendlier and almost understand each other. Next step is understand each other without words. Everyone is trying at his best. Pasha is responsible for the choosing of the routs, he watches closely over the safety. Without Pasha it would be impossible for me to get used to these rocks.

Every day I’m moving forward. Climbing trad is easier and more pleasant now. From the signs of confidence on the route I experience real pleasure. Adrenalin is playing in the blood. Every move and every point depend on you. Everything is in your hands, it is your choice – take the risk or not?

Of course there are moments when I tell to myself: Ohh Mama, why did I out myself here? But as soon as you finish the problem, adrenalin covers all difficulties and you are again ready for the new fight!

More new from this trip you can find here.

03.10.2013 | Categories: Outdoor, Travelling around | 1 Comment »

News from USA #3. Indian Creek.

First of all thanks to everyone who is following these news!

Rustam Gelmanov on the wall

In the previous post you saw strange thing with crimps attached to the car. So, it is fast made foldable trainer for training climbing on normal crimps. Now we are only doing crack climbing, for sure I will lose my current skills on the crimp climbing. Therefore, designed during building this trainer happens to be very useful and easy! If you want to create the same, write to me, I can tell you couple of nuances. I’m warming up on this trainer in the mornings. Also I’m using weighing material which I brought from home.

Despite some everyday life difficulties, life here is very simple. Morning. Making fruit salad. Even our friend – video operator, who likes meat a lot – said that he getting full with the salad, especially by vegetable one that we make in the evening. He doesn’t have much choice here, set of products we have is very simple – a lot of fruits and vegetables.

Everyone is getting up early and waiting for the sun to feel the warmness of the luminary. Then we are warming up a bit and going to the rocks. Climbing and again climbing. Usually we come when it is very dark already.

Every night fabulous stars shine in the sky, every star whispers its mystery. There is infinite number of stars, but every star is insanely far from another. The same is with people. There are so many people in the world, sometimes it looks like we are close. But actually there is everlasting misunderstanding and disagreement between people. Only small pendant bridges can safe the situation, everyone should built these bridges inside – tolerance, hope, and persistence.

More news and more photos will come! Hope you are enjoying it.

01.10.2013 | Categories: Out loud, Outdoor, Travelling around | 2 Comments »

News from USA #2. Indian Creek.

Couple of days after arriving to Albuquerque we continued our journey.

Now we are already in Indian Creek. Hard training started.

Sometimes we are repeating the routes that we did last year. Now it is much easier. It is like bicycle – as soon as you know how to cycle and know the techniques, you only gain the experience. On some routes I feel very comfortable. I’m very surprised with that!

I was dreaming about being in this beautiful park after competition season. You can feel real serenity here! Of course it depends on the people with whom you stay there.

Training wall for crimp climbing

We arrived late night to this place and could experience all mystery that feels this place. With sunrise day becomes “working day” and there is no time to enjoy the nature anymore. Impatiently I’m waiting for the evening, darkness and mysteriousness come instantly. Large sun falls over the horizon like big sunflower.

Crack climbing is like a ballet for me. Sometimes you have to stand awful pain and spend a lot of power. At the same time you are trying to keep power. To do that you need to move elegantly and try to unite with the wall like you are the part of the wall. Don’t you think it is like a ballet? Only there is no public.

New hair style!

If you want to know more about my trip to USA read here. And the video from last year!

27.09.2013 | Categories: Do it yourself, Outdoor, Travelling around | 2 Comments »

News from USA # 1

Right after writing previous post about Adidas Rockstars I went far away over the ocean.

Packing was fast, my friend Pavel took care about a lot of things. Yes, with Pavel we are going to perform long-planned. Full of enthusiasm I arrived to Albuquerque expecting Pasha (another version of his name) to meet me with flowers)))) But what do I see? I noticed someone familiar sleeping on the bench near baggage belt. He almost didn’t recognize me! Pasha is sleepy and a bit angry; his baggage is lost and should arrive in couple of hours.

Then we were picked up by a Mark (now he is also mine fiend). To meet such a person is as rare as seeing birth of a new star. He helped us so much, so it is even difficult to say. Huge thanks to him for everything!

We felt at home form the first moment and started to work immediately. Pasha and I bought car here, we like it very much! We made beds, fixes some things under the bonnet.