climbing is life


Red Bull Rock’n’Rocks: The Journey of a Rock Climber Told Through Music

in englishна русском


Professional rock climber Rustam Gelmanov had a dream - to express climbing and the emotional journey a climber experiences through music. Musicians Long Arm & Ruslan Gazhgimuradov teamed up in a collaboration inspired by Rustam's dream, to realize his dream and compose the journey of a climber as they set out to conquer a new face.

Chasing Piligrims (Redbull Creepers)

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I was invited to the event which reminded me the story of Hemingway «The Dangerous Summer». Bullfighting, blood, fear in people's eyes, joyful voices and desperate lightning movements of Torrero, euphoric fighting for life.

So what am I saying?

I am one of the participants of deep water solo event, which is held in the famous by bullfight Spanish city, Pamplona. Nearby in Puente la Reina, there is legendary bridge, in which long time ago Pilgrims walked.

This bridge will be in our hands, and underfoot is a shallow river, which was differently accepting flying without prejudice to the people. And who is 'flying'? – Yes, they are not just athletes, they are wonderful actors waiting for the roar of the audience that does not push them away. Charismatic, each with its own style and different attitude. Years of experience can be seen by calm look in stressful conditions. You can almost touch the outgoing force, it so evident when a group of such athletes gathered together in one place for a common goal.

Rustam Gelmanov, Рустам Гельманов


Laval and the entire 2014 season

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I'm very glad that I could finalize this half year with such a good point. I couldn’t even imagine that I am capable of such a beautiful performance. Seems that during the season I spent all reserve of failures and I didn’t have other choice as perform in the way I did.

Rustam Gelmanov, Рустам ГельмановI stated preparation for the competitions long before beginning of the season. At the beginning of January I already started with first conscious training. Winter is a difficult time. You forget that you can do everything, weather is gray and you are not in the mood to strain yourself. Slowly you start noticing the power and enjoying it. It is difficult to understand whether you are ready mentally or not. Competitions are required to correct your psychological training.

At first competition you will have a feeling that you missed something important, no matter how hard you were preparing. As if one of many muscles is not strong enough. Anyway, it is too late to worry and doubts bring anxiety. In spite of the fact that I participated in more than 70 world cups, every morning before the competition I experience the same feelings as I had many years ago in the morning of long-awaited birthday. Deep belief in miracle covers me, chills of happiness makes me realize that I live at this exact second. Those feelings are necessary for me.

One competition after another.. but I was not quit myself. In some competition I felt special connection with public, which so diligently supported me. I hope that public felt the same way. It seemed to me that sometimes I can pour fluids into audience, creating special contact.

Rustam Gelmanov, Рустам Гельманов

Looking into the past of my busy calendar, I am glad that I finished intended in a proper manner. Somewhere I gave up the slack, but at the same time, I flashed a couple of times. I'm not a very busy man, but there is not so much time and I want to do so many things.

I always remind myself that it is very important to live a moment that is now, truly love it, and then all the obstacles turn into an endless amusing game.

Here is the video from the finals in Laval.

And best of IFSC 2014 with a lot of falls, interesting moves and successful attempts.

More about bouldering competitions you can find here.

Video from Alternative lesson in Kazan, Russia

I traveled to Kazan to give alternative lesson. Thanks to all public! I enjoyed your questions a lot.

Here is video from alternative lesson. It is in Russian.

El Capitan The Nose first attempt

In September 2012 Pasha Dobrinskiy and I was climbing El Capitan the Nose, in Yosemite National Park. Amazing place! I will come back there next year to free climb the Nose. Valery Semenov made video about our first attempt. Hope you will enjoy it.

P.S.: Thanks to Sven Diekmann for the help with comments 🙂

Video from Master Class in St.Petersburg

I've been in climbing festival in Luch, St.Peterburg. One day before the competitions I gave Master class. Here is the video, it is in Russian.